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 Post subject: Information: Kimono Item List
PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 11:09 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2008 2:17 pm
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Favorite Geiko: Ichisayo
Favorite Maiko: Miharu
A lot of people think that one only needs a kimono and obi for an ensemble, if only that was true. There are actually quite a few accessories that are needed to pull of a proper kitsuke ( the art of dressing in kimono. ). Accessories can be expensive, but I'll make sure to outline a few ideas of how you can make your own kimono accessories, which really makes kimono dressing all that less daunting. I'll list and show all the have-to-haves or have-to-makes and then I'll list optional accessories. I'm writing this accessory list as a tutorial for gathering the pieces one needs to dress in a townwear style. Townwear is informal wear, but it's also what one will probably get the most wear out of.

As well, I'll list the price ranges of the items, so can know what to expect by buying. These prices come off of sites like ebay, and I high suggest ebay for your kimono needs. There are several sellers on ebay whom you can trust and have confidence in. Ryujapan, KimonoLily, Yamatoku, Ichiroya, and JapaneseAntiques are some of the top sellers there, and there are a few others. A lot of people fret over ebay, because, honestly, it is a can be a cesspool and one can get ripped off. However, in all my years of Kimono buying, I have never had too many problems, and none what so ever from the established kimono businesses on Ebay.

Must Haves ( not to make )
First off, the Kimono, obvious I know, but here's the shape of what a kimono should look like.
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This Kimono is a summer hitoe ( hitoe = unlined, awase = lined ) which is perfect for townwear. Generally, Townwear Kimono are not that expensive. This one was bought from KimonoLily ( US Seller, US shipping cheap for US people. ) for around $11. I paid $7.50 shipping, so this Kimono cost under $20 with shipping. Expect around $10 - $20 for Kimono like these.

Obi - Again, with the obvious. With townwear, one should stray from heavy embroidered pieces, they're also more expensive for us frugal types. There are several types of Obi, and I'll quickly hash over the most common types.

Fukuro - 12 inches wide, ranging from 130 inches long to around 160 inches long. 3/4 of the showing side is pattern, the un-patterned parts are hidden in the tying process. Semi - Formal to Formal

Maru - Same dimensions as a Fukuro Obi. Completely patterned, front to back. Formal.

Nagoya - Range about 120inches to 140 inches. Is made to tie the Otaiko Musubi ( Drum knot bow ) They are 6 inches wide at the "belt" part and 12 wide wear one would make the drum of the bow. Informal - Formal ( require Obiage, Obijime, and Obi Makura. )

Hanhaba - Literally means "half width." These are by far the best obi to buy as a starter, they're much easier to work with, and are generally far cheaper. Obi have to be folded in half when put on, or folded partially depending on height, a hanhaba does not require this, so it makes it much easier to don. They are generally 6 inches wide. Their length varies from 115 inches and longer.

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This Obi here is a hanhaba obi. Hanhaba obi cost around $10 - $30 without shipping, yet some sellers start their auctions off at $1 on Hanhaba obi. This one I snagged for $4, of course, I had to pay shipping. I think I paid around $7 - $ 11 to ship this out of Japan via SAL ( also known as the SLOW way. ). Still, not too crazy.

The Juban

This is, essentially, the under kimono. They're generally cut like the kimono, but generally are shorter.
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Juban are fairly cheap and plentiful on ebay. One should be able to snag one for about $9.99. KimonoLily usually has a couple a week, and most of the other sellers have quite a few. One may have to pay shipping from Japan, but SAL shipping isn't too expensive.

One can instead use an Eri Sugata instead of a Juban. There is a seller that keeps a stock of them and sells them for around $24.
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They're basically a collar and some belts to tie it on. One can probably make one without too much trouble.

Geta / Zori
- Take your Pick :)
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Geta
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Zori
From my experience, Geta are cheaper then Zori. Geta will run about $10, and Zori will run about $20 or more. Of course, that's without shipping, however, one can snag Geta and Zori from US Sellers off of ebay all the time. Geta and Zori were a popular tourist item to bring home, and so they can often be found without being in Japan.

Tabi
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Socks :) $7.50 and up.



Must Haves ( That can be easily made. )

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Koshi Himo -
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These are really nothing more then long strips of fabric, they're used as belts to hold things up and tie them. Generally they can be made with Muslin, Cotton, or Silk. They cost around $10 - $20 with shipping and are usually in a pack of three. In the old days, people in Japan would make Koshi Himo with old and tattered kimono.

Date Jime
-
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The Date Jime are on the top right, on the bottom right are more koshi-himo. These are wider belts, pretty much akin to an under obi. They're generally used around the waste to flatten and smooth. Generally, they're made of a woven material that can be tied very flat, in Japan, they're made from a textile called Hakata ( also used on Obi's ) and is know for its tight tying ability. You can make these to. $10 - $20

Korin Belt
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These are for pulling the two sides of the collars taunt and keeping them straight and smooth. They're invaluable accessory. $9. Easily made, use a suspender. :) )

Han - Eri
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This is the collar cover for the Juban. They can be changed out, but are generally white. Most of the time, any Juban you'll buy will come with a Han-eri. If not, they can be cut from fabric. About 6 inches wide, to 27 - 36 inches long. Prices range crazily. $10 for a simple white, but an embroidered haneri can cost $45. Yikes! It's actually cheaper to find a Juban with a Haneri attached, even embroidered, and snag the Juban and Haneri.

Eri - Shin
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This is slipped between the Juban Collar and the Haneri. This is a collar stiffener, and gives the collar of the kimono that sharp clean look. $3 - $10 - Easily made with a little bit of acetate or thin plastic, which is all it really is.

Obi Ita ( Obi Board )
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Before placing the Obi, place this, it'll give the obi a flat look and not a crumpled look. $5 - $15. Cardboard and some fabric to glue on it will due more then dandy. :)




The Non - Essentials
Items below are for kimono ensembles that are semi - formal to formal, or are used with tying an Otaiko Musubi ( Drum knot Bow ).

Obi Makura
- Obi Pillow
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Used to hold up the top of the drum knot tie. Can be used for other musubi ( ties / bows / knots ), and really only mainly to help perk up a droopy musubi. $7.50 - $15.00. Easily made with Foam and panty hose. XD

Obiage -
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This is the bustle cloth, it covers over the obi makura. Is that little part of fabric seen above the Obi. Ranges from price. $9 and up. Can be very expensive depending on dye technique, fabric, embroidery, etc, etc, etc.

Obi Jime -

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This is the cord that goes over the obi and is used in the Otaiko to hold up or tie part of the musubi. Can be used in the same way on other ties as well, but can also be simply ornamental. $9 and up. Many Kimono sellers sell Obiage and Obijime as a set.

Date Eri -
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A lot of three date eri seen here. Used to create a fake look of another kimono beneath the one a person is wearing. In Meiji and Taisho periods, it was very popular to wear more then one layer as a status symbol and that it was considered sexy. $9 and up.

And this concludes this factual tidbit. If I missed anything, I'll fix it, just let me know. :) Hope this helps some of the members!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 6:42 pm 
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Shikomi
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Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2008 11:07 pm
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Location: Dallas and Fort Worth Area
Thank you Tsuruko, for your great photos and items list in regards to wearing kimono.

I find yours the most inclusive of any lists (needs) I have seen on many web sites regarding items needed for kimono wearing.

I'd just like to say that I have found it possible to do without some items all together from the list, and substitute for others so that the cost is considerably less.

Just a personal preference here, but I don't like to use the collar stiffeners at all; and using them depends on how well a kimono collar is sewn / constructed. I like a more "natural" look to the back of the collar, and not using the collar stiffener is also cooler in extremely hot weather, at least that is my personal experience.
:wink:

Your pictures are absolutely fantastic; thanks for sharing them!
:)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 7:49 pm 
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Favorite Geiko: Ichisayo
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Me, take those pictures? please. . . ( I'm way too lazy. ) They're mainly just copied off listings. The Kimono, Obi, and Juban are mine though. XD I love that Kimono, btw, it's so unique. It's sheer like Sha, but the polka dots on it are like velveteen, I've just never have seen a flocked kimono.

I don't use an Eri Shin if I am wearing one of the brocade Han Eri that I've made ( that's plenty thick and stiff ) and it gives a very natural and vintage styled collar look. I think that's how it was pulled off in the days before plastic and acetate, a lot of the really old haneri are made of brocade. I also don't use eri shin on my dressing form, but if I'm dressing myself and without a brocade collar, then I do use an eri shin. I guess I'm a horrible neat freak at times. XD

The korin belt can be omitted, I didn't use it in the beginning of my kitsuke days. I actually used it to clip my obi board, but since I began to use it properly, it makes all the difference, at least for me. I couldn't imagine trying to dress in one of my hikizuri with their heavy collars without that sucker. . . XD

I'm not too sure what tutorial I'll work on next. It's pretty much a toss up between Kitsuke - How - To, or Formality and Types of Kimono.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:47 am 
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Shikomi
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2008 4:25 pm
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Wonderful :)

A complete list of all I'd need for my kimono or yukata :)

Thanks!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 2:12 am 
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Minarai
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Location: Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
Favorite Geiko: Mineko and Wakana
Favorite Maiko: Tsuruha
About the stuff you said that can't be made: What if the seamstress is fantastically gifted and specializes in Japanese clothing, especially kimono? And has a fantastic supplier of organic silk?

And yes, such a seamstress/tailor does exist outside of Japan, lol, but they aren't in great amounts. Or, they are a great tailor, stuck working 7am to 3pm in a hot, sweaty dry cleaning place, lol, and have an insane passion for all things kimono...

... no, not me... although I once fell into that category. I'm good, but I wouldn't call myself fantastic.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 8:23 pm 
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Toshi No Miya
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what is a bingata kimono? (i am sure this doesn't belong here but i didn't feel like spam the section with a new thread)

it looks to me a bit like a furisode but what is the diffrence, anyone can explain it to me? *blush*

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:05 pm 
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Favorite Geiko: Ichisayo
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Furisode is the style of kimono, so indeed, that's a furisode.

Bingata, if I understand right, is a stencil dying method that originated in Okinawa. Bingata is generally quite expensive, though there are imitation bingata kimono. ^^


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:31 pm 
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Thank you Tsuruko!!!! :D

how can i identify a false one from a true one?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:38 am 
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To be honest, I really don't know. I think false bingata is a woven design versus a stencil painted design. :/ But I can't be certain upon that.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 1:16 pm 
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I've only seen a false bingata kimono once, and it was quite obviously printed fabric rather than stencil-dyed :/ Otherwise, I'm not entirely sure how to tell either!

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:18 pm 
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Thank-you so much without you telling me that i would not of known!! xxxx now i can wear kimono knowing i have everything right! :D:D


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 Post subject: Re: Information: Kimono Item List
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 3:09 am 
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Shikomi
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I think my grandmother had a bingata kimono...one way you might be able to tell is because (I think) on a proper bingata kimono, the "dye" floats a bit about the surface of the silk, whereas a printed pattern with be completely even with it. Just a thought.

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 Post subject: Re: Information: Kimono Item List
PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:59 pm 
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ah thats really intresting. i would love to have a furisode kimono :cry:

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