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Oiran
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Post subject: A small lining question Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 1:14 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2008 4:25 pm Posts: 90 Location: Warsaw
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I was wondering... Today I received a new tomesode, and I discovered a strange thing...
There was extra lining sewed roughly to it - on the inside, but only along the hem and collar (the inside was the original lining), and on both edges of the sleeves. I delicately took it off, since I had trouble wearing it like that (it's terribly hot here!) but it still puzzles me.
The motif is peonies, and I think it is a spring motif, so maybe the kimono was made for extra warmth? Any ideas?
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Fuyouhime
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Post subject: Re: A small lining question Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 4:53 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:17 pm Posts: 818 Location: Virginia Favorite Geiko: Mayuha and Kimika Favorite Maiko: Kikuyuu
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That extra layer is called a hiyoku. It's a common feature of formal kimono like tomesode, and if you look at images of maiko and geiko's kimono, you'll see that a lot of them have one as well, although tomesode usually have a white one and maiko/geiko have something more colorful. It's purpose is to both give a sense of layering, and thus formality, just like with a date eri. Also, if a kimono is to be left trailing, it protects the kimono.
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Oiran
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Post subject: Re: A small lining question Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 5:21 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2008 4:25 pm Posts: 90 Location: Warsaw
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Thanks a lot! Now I get it - I'm still so green in kimono...  Mine was white, just as you said! I took if off since it was really uncomfortable and it needed a good washing, but I'm sure I can sew it on again if I need it!
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Fuyouhime
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Post subject: Re: A small lining question Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:27 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:17 pm Posts: 818 Location: Virginia Favorite Geiko: Mayuha and Kimika Favorite Maiko: Kikuyuu
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They're just tacked on since they often pick up dirt around the hem and need cleaning, so it should be easy to put back on when it gets colder. If it has a hiyoku, then it's probably an awase kimono and not meant for this time of year anyway, so I can imagine it would be very warm when wearing it.
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Oiran
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Post subject: Re: A small lining question Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 2:32 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2008 4:25 pm Posts: 90 Location: Warsaw
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Awase means lined, right? I can tell apart general kimono types, now I'm getting into details  Yes, it's lined - all my kimono are lined, actually, apart from one houmongi. I'll have to try and get some 
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Fuyouhime
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Post subject: Re: A small lining question Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 11:03 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:17 pm Posts: 818 Location: Virginia Favorite Geiko: Mayuha and Kimika Favorite Maiko: Kikuyuu
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Yes, awase is lined which is appropriate for mid-September to mid-April, hitoe or unlined is from mid april to the end of May as well as a small transition from mid-September to the beginning of October, and ro/sha fabrics are for June to August.
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Oiran
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Post subject: Re: A small lining question Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:24 am |
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2008 4:25 pm Posts: 90 Location: Warsaw
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It does match up with my kimons  Thanks!
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